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You've searched bridal shops and department stores high and low, but the dress
of your dreams just doesn't seem to exist. Or perhaps you've found THE gown, but that
couture price tag is just shy of what you'd hoped to spend on the entire wedding (ouch!).
In either case, the best solution may be to hire a seamstress and design a wedding dress
that is perfect for you. Sounds simple enough. Unfortunately, unless you or a close
relative is an accomplished seamstress (by accomplished, I mean more experienced than one
Home Ec class in the 7th grade), you have a crucial mission: finding the right seamstress.
Seamstress, Master Tailor Or Couture House?
First, you must determine what you are looking for. One way to proceed is to decide
whether or not you will be using a ready-made pattern. You may have a photo of a similar
dress, or wish to create an original design from your imagination. Keep in mind that many
seamstresses work only from patterns, and are not qualified to design a gown from scratch.
If you do not have a pattern, you may have to hire a master tailor, who can make the
pattern and the dress. Alternatively, a master tailor can make the pattern, and a
seamstress can sew the gown.
A word about couture: if you are among the lucky few with an unlimited budget, by all
means, grab your mom or best friend and head to Paris and the big couture houses. But be
forewarned: well known designers want to fit you into their designs; they do not take well
to customers who dictate designs to them. If you fall into this category, you would be
better off locating a local couture house or dressmaker who is happy to work with clients
on their own design. In most cases, the customer buys the fabric for the gown separately,
then pays the couturier anywhere from $500 to $1500 to make the dress. Depending on the
fabric and style you choose (i.e., vintage buttons, lace or extravagant beading can set
you back more), you may still save money going this route, considering the high cost of
some ready-to-wear designer gowns.
Once you know what type of dressmaker you need, the following suggestions will help locate
the right one for you.
Word Of Mouth
Chances are, you already have a friend who has a wonderful seamstress or dressmaker. You
know this because you saw (OK, coveted) your friends gown at her wedding last year. If you
happen to be so lucky, you should immediately get the seamstress’ phone number and
make an appointment. If she's that good, she's liable to be booked months in advance. If
you don't know anyone first hand, perhaps a friend has a friend whose seamstress is
reportedly fantastic. This can still be a great way to find a seamstress, but don’t
be too shy to ask the seamstress to see samples of her work. Some seamstresses may have
photographs of gowns they have made over the years, but if you can see a real sample, all
the better. For all you know, she may be all ruffles and lace, while you’re a sleek,
sexy slip-dress kind of girl. In any case, make sure the seamstress has worked with a
range of styles and fabrics. You don’t want to be her guinea pig as she makes her
foray into a new design arena.
Professional Referrals
Aside from friends, you can usually get referrals from the following sources:
Your Alterations Specialist. If you have an alteration specialist whom you trust, he or
she may be able to refer you to a competent tailor or seamstress. Some alterations
specialists may even be able to make the dress themselves, provided you have a pattern.
An Upscale Fabric Shop. Take a trip to the most luxurious fabric shop in town (you are
going to have to find fabric for your gown, after all). Even if you don’t buy
anything, a sales consultant should be able to give you some referrals for local
seamstresses and couturiers.
A Bridal Shop. Many bridal shops use outside seamstresses to custom make veils, or for
complicated gown alterations. If you’re really nice (or maybe if you buy your gloves
or tiara at the shop), they may give you a referral.
A Theater Or Opera Company. If you live near a big city, you may find that some of the
best seamstresses in the area are the ones regularly creating costumes for the stage.
These professionals are likely to have considerable experience making gowns from lush
fabrics with big, billowing skirts. After all, don’t you want to feel like a star on
that big day?
The Internet. If you’re reading this, you have access to the Internet, so if you
don’t have any personal referrals, this may be a way to go. Some dressmakers listed
online include quotes by previous happy customers. But be sure to check them out offline
as well.
The Phone Book. If you can’t get a personal referral (let’s face it, with all
the ready-to-wear out there, it is a dying art), you may have to turn to your local yellow
pages to find a seamstress.
In any case, try to see samples of the dressmaker’s work before you commit to having
her make your gown. Better yet, if you have the time, have the seamstress make another
piece of clothing first, such as a skirt or blouse. This way, you can see how well she
listens to what you want, and how competent she is at her craft.
Do It Yourself
If you can sew quite well yourself, thank you very much, you might consider making your
own wedding gown. One word of caution, though… do this only if have the time and the
stomach for it. Do not make this decision in haste. There are so many details to plan for
a wedding. If making your gown is going to add to your stress, why bother?
Final Checklist
Once you have decided on a dressmaker, schedule a sit-down meeting with him or her and go
over your pattern, or describe in detail the gown you want. You may already have purchased
the fabric, but if not, discuss the type of fabric you are considering. The seamstress may
have ideas as to how well different material will work with your design.
Get an estimate of what it will cost to have the dress made, and whether extras, such as
buttons, zippers and thread, are included. Most dressmakers will include these in their
fee, but if you want something special, such as vintage buttons, you will need to purchase
them yourself. If possible, get the estimate in writing. Remember, having a dress made
isn’t guaranteed to be cheaper; if you are using expensive fabrics and a complex
design, the cost of materials combined with the seamstress’ bill could exceed the
price tag on that store-bought gown.
Be prepared for many fittings. If the seamstress takes your measurements and tells you to
pick the dress up in three weeks, be wary. Making a wedding gown is not the same as
getting your jeans hemmed.
Give the seamstress a clear deadline. To avoid last minute stress, it is a good idea to
tell her/him you need the dress several weeks before your wedding. Lie about the actual
date if you have to. This will give you time to request any last minute changes, or if all
else fails, run out and purchase a different dress. Don’t worry though. THIS WILL NOT
HAPPEN TO YOU! You have taken the steps above and your dress is going to turn out as
beautiful and unique as you are.
With a little patience, imagination and hard work, you and your seamstress will create the
wedding gown of your dreams.